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Lawn renovation
If the irrigation system there is same as here think it will have major rework to it. If nothing else setting it to match the new grade.
That sounds like a costly fix but may well be worth it. If that corner and it being bumpy are the issues you may be able to grade it without stripping the top soil off. But a simple question when you say you brought in a "Ton" of loam are you really meaning 2,000 pounds or just say a "lot" of loam? If only 2,000 pounds that is not much. Has it gotten so hard you can not remove the topsoil with the fel?
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Lawn renovation
aerodan, might have been a great first question just how large is your yard to grade, side yard and the back yard separate. How wide and such. That will help with type of equipment might be good option and such.
At least here you would not see a dozier in a yard for grading unless before construction and then a much above normal yard. My guess is at least two acres. Now you need to take into consideration we don't have rock nor hills. If you did have major cutting down of dirt a dozier can be great machine for that. Normally you do not see that for a yard, a whole subdivision yes or maybe a commercial site. They do have dozier with computer control levels to help get the grading you want. Would really be guessing at cost but for a yard you size job would probably have to pay for them hauling the machine in,then a flat dollar amount per hour for the machine and operator.
We call them road plows can also be a good machine for such grading and they also have them with computer aids to get the grading you want. They need room to drive past the end of what is being grader due to the blade being about mid way. My thought for an acre or so unless you have again major cutting down of dirt or major slope or rocks a tractor and box blade. If you use the lift arm adjustments on your tractor you should be able to tilt the blade with probably lowering the right end of the blade if you need to cut the land to a side slope. For cutting like it sounds like you need you probably will keep the blade level and use your lift to control the cutting of the dirt.
If I may quote an ole friend who was here you would do finally grading not in lines or circles but you would run in over lapping circles or ovals. Not his exact words but his point. To being with you first need to know how much you need to lower or raise each area of the lawn. Water does not need much slope to run and of course the more it has the more it can wash your lawn but the faster it is gone. I would suggest you use some sort of laser level and drive wooden stakes say in 10 to 20 square pattern to write on each stake how much with magic marker needs to be cut down or raised. I would write two numbers on each stake, how much dirt needs moving and then how much from the top of the stake it needs to be when graded to be the grade you want. The first number is so you have idea as you work and the second is to use to check by as you are doing the grading. Leave the stakes in place while you are doing the grading till you have only right around them untouched and them remove and just bring them to the grade around them.
I know you want to remove the top soil you brought in and may be best option but till you know the amount you need to cut down or or build up you really don't know. You may have areas you need to remove the top soil for you need to really drop the grade or you may need to lower the grade so little the amount of top soil being remove will not be any major issue.
Realize this is new built ground area but you may find the top soil issue is not as major with good soil testing and then adding nutrients as called for to take care of the lawn.
Now if you have a five acre yard there and can easy afford to hire it done...would recommend that..
Hope that helps.
If you are not sure on shooting the grade hire someone who has the equipment to. You can find surveyor, builder, plumbers and landscapers often have the tools and know how. Hey if not a real large yard you can use a water level which is basically clear flexible tubing you almost fully fill with water and use the water level from a base point as your reference grade and then the water level in the other end gives you that level but do be sure the level on the base point has not gone up or down with moving the hose.
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I think you do good to talk to someone who can do the work and get their idea and pricing.
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